See Jack Shop

A well-made suit that fits impeccably is an instant ego booster. Unfortunately, there are millions of men walking around in bargain-basement looking, ill-fitting suits with a low self-esteem to match.
I consider suits to be the most important clothing in a man’s closet. They’re also often the most poorly chosen. I recently met Guy Voglino, merchandising manager of Brooks Brothers, who shared his vast knowledge on key points men should be aware of when shopping for tailored clothing.

Fit Points

Button stance: The button stance is an important fit point. You measure stance from the top of shoulder to the first button. Once you start playing with button stance, it shifts the balance of the suit.

Shoulder: If the shoulder is wrong, the jacket hikes back when you move. Brooks Brothers sews by hand from front to back, with seven interior layers. It allows parts to move independently, and you get comfort with movement.

Collar: The collar should fit snug around the neck. Railroad stitching (on the back of the collar) reinforces the area and helps the collar mold around the neck and retain its shape.

Chest: You don’t want the lapel to lie flat��?you want a slight “roll.� That’s what the canvas chest piece inside the jacket is for. Many dry-cleaners mistakenly press lapels flat, and some suit makers skimp on the chest piece, using a combination of synthetic materials.

Pants: Brooks Brothers suits have a band roll on the waistband which extends all the way to the tip of the waistband, which gives shape to the waist. It’s also important for pants to have generous pockets to prevent holes, and this is where some skimp to save money.

Jos.A.Bank, $198.00
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